These days I´m also here: VamosaPasear.wordpress.com
19 Jul
Is Buenos Aires safe?
During the last few years crime seems to have increased in Buenos Aires, and now people heading to the country are asking more often, is Buenos Aires safe?
It is hard to have a real and accurate impresion of what is going on in the city, as we are in “elections” year, as on October this year, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner will have ended her 4 years period. But, wants more and she is candidate for a second round.
However, she has a strong opposition. And part of the oposition is the media, that does not like her any more since she decided to change the media law.
So, without going into political details, the truth is, that unsecurity and crime have probably more advertisement than ever.
Having said this, we also have to face, there is more pick-pocketing and bag-slashing in certain areas. Probably this has to do also with the incrasement of tourism, and the easy availability of expensive cameras, watches and wallets that thiefs find in crowded touristy areas.
Whatever the reasons are, Buenos Aires is a big city, and, as in every big city of this world, you have to be aware and keep and eye in your belongings.
- Avoid walking in the nights. Take a taxi back hotel after dinner.
- Be particularly aware of your belongings in: San Telmo fly market, Florida street and subway.
- After taking the picture, put back you camera in the bag, or around your neck. Don’t just hold it with your hand.
- If suddenly a smelly liquid is in your clothes, not knowing where it came from, avoid anyone helping you. It is a popular way to take your values while you think they are helping to clean the mess.
- Don’t allow anyone to help you in ATM.
- Pay taxis with change. Sadly some taxi drivers give false change back.
- Avoid microcentro, San Telmo and La Boca during nights.
- If you don’t feel safe in an area, or just don’t like something around, flag a taxi or go into a hotel and ask them to call a taxi for you.
After saying all this, you still don’t need to be paranoid, but being careful might make you avoid an unwhished situation during your visit. Have good time and let me know your experiences…
11 Jun
Gracias a la vida
“Thanks to life” is probable one of the most beautiful South American songs.
The chilean Violeta Parra recorded it during 1966, upon arrival from Europe. A hard year for herself, after the end of an important relationship.
The song, a humanitarian hymn, is basically a poem for the wonder of life.
The significance of its lyrics changed drastically when a year later Violeta decided to end with her life.
We learnt to listen her pain behind the thankful words, and her way of saying “thank you very much, I’m leaving”
Violeta Parra, singer, painter, sculptor , and writer, is a piece of Chile, wherever you listen to her.
7 Jun
Galapagos on a Budget
Galapagos Islands, in Ecuador, are probably one of the highlights of South America. However, the destination seems to be exclusive for those who can spend a lot of money in a few days, since flights, hotels and cruises are usually out of budget for small pockets.
There is no way to do it cheap, sadly, since to the very first expense (the flight ticket) we talk of no less than 350 usd.
But, having said this, there are always tips to help you saving some dollars.
- Going in low season: from mid-April to the end of June, and from early September to mid-December
- Do all your resarch at home. Do not buy the tour at home but study maps, information about the islands and tour operators at home. In this way you will save the money of lots of internet, phone calls, hotel nights, etc.
- Decide which islands you want to go. This will make easier your research for a tour.
Not staying in a cruise looks cheaper, but if you want to see a number of islands, it is almost impossible from main land, and you will need more days and to pay for excursions and transfers between the islands. I have already done the account you spend almost the same.
- Wait for last-minute offers. Check with companies in Quito or in Puerto Ayora on the same week you want to travel. Of course you wont have any guarantee of having the boat you want, but there are boats leaving everyday, and the difference is big.
Let’s say, if the price of the boat is usd1500, for a last-minute in Quito you can find it for usd1100 and in Puerto Ayora it can go down to usd950.
- Be careful with itineraries. Cheapest boats tend to go to places you can go by your own. When they visit the three main islands (Santa Cruz, Isabella and Santiago) they are cheaper, but also poorer variety of what you see. Also between these three islands there is a boat service, once a day, 30 usd each way.
Find information about the islands- it will help you to make better decisions.
I like this list Hillman, a travel guru, wrote on the internet.
I found a good description of the islands at this website Galapagos Tour Guide
Travel Agents in Puerto Ayora
Joybe Tours 252-4385, on Av. Charles Darwin
Galapagos Cruising Moran, Tel. 08933-7599
Agencies with last minute offers in Quito
Sangay Tours Luis Cordero E4-358 with Amazonas. Tel. 593- 2550-176
Tierra de Fuego Tours Av. Amazonas N23-23 with Veintimilla. Tel 593- 2550-1418
Happy Gringo Foch E6-12 Tel. 593-2-2906077
Ecoventura Tel 593- 2290-7396
Other useful websites
www.galapagostour.org Official website
http://www.travelindependent.info/america-galapagos.htm full of information for independent travelers.
2 Apr
Buenos Aires Off the Beaten Path
How many times have you said I don’t want to do something tourist?
But the truth is, most of the times, people want it to non touristy but also comfortable, nearby, special and bilingual if possible.
It is easily understandable that if you have all this, you will have also a hundred gringos around. So- encourage yourself and let’s go out, for the other side of the city. To mix with the locals, practise your few words in spanish and maybe even fall more in love with BA!
Here four of my favourites
- Tranvia: (at the corner of Mitre and Jose Bonifacio) In the neighbourhood of Caballito the “Association of Friends of the Tramway” still runs an old Tramway on weekends (hours vary during the year, check their website). The round is free, and you will be driven for about 1,5 kilometre in the centre of Caballito. Feel in Buenos Aires at 1900, waiting for the very well dressed up employ who comes to verify you have your ticket! The rounds are free- as many as you want. Every weekend they take out a different Tramway- come to see them!
From downtown you get here by subway line A (the oldest of Latin America)- get off at Primera Junta subway station. From here is about 7 blocks. Check more info at Tramway website
- Explore Once!
The Jewish neighbourhood,dangerous during the nights but crazy alive and crowded during the day, will give you a good glimpse of the other side of the city!
From Plaza Miserere subway station, walk on Rivadavia Av. direction Callao, and get lost in the interior streets. Big sales here, so full of people coming from different areas in the suburbs to buy and re sell in there. A strange mix of Peruvians selling chipa on the streets, Bolivians selling spacies and jewish selling cloths!
- Fileteado Porteno and Abasto.
Be aware of pick pocketing and bag slashing here, so just during day light and careful with belongings!
Abasto is the neighbourhood of Carlos Gardel, first Tango Singer who died dramatically during an air accident when his airplane felled down in Colombia. He was on the top of his career., and since that he became a legend.
In this neighbourhood you can visit his house, now a museum, walk on the decorated streets (Jean jaures street has been all decorated with fileteado painting), go into the shopping mall Abasto (once the Central Market of the city still keep the original structure), drink a beer at El Banderin (a charming old cafe), pick up a book in El Archibrazo (Mario Bravo 437) a bookstore with activities like wine tasting, tango shows, and a café indoors. End up with a visit to one of the theatres or art galleries of the under culture of Buenos Aires.
A few useful websites
- Palacio Barolo: This hidden treasure in downtown, right at Av Mayo 1370- very close of the Congress, it is a building from beginning of 1900, completely inspired in the Dante Alighieri’s “Divine Comedy”. An architecture masterpiece, the only place in the city where you can enjoy 360 degrees view.
Very interesting tours run during the day, and a couple of times a week during the night (ending with a glass of wine) for about 20$ per person. Check their website Palacio Barolo Tours
Enjoy it!
2 Dec
Salta- before you go
Iruya, Salta
Oh 
Salta Salta!
Everyone calls her “the beatiful”
It is one of the favourite destinations for argentinians- but I have to advice you, it is not for everyone. Most of the activities/excursions involve long drivings (Cafayate 3 hrs, Purmamarca 2 hrs, etc).
It is a very dry area, with much more inca influence than the rest of the country. It is hot during the day and quit chili during the nights.
Very relaxed town, maybe not the best if you plan to go just for a couple of days. But it is ideal if you want to rest, full your eyes with colourful mountains, taste local indigenous dishes and drink amazing wine while you listen folklore, our national music (gauchos dancing)- sorrounded by locals eating empanadas and claping hands…
Here some general advice about it!
Ø When you visit Salta, you visit a very different culture from Buenos Aires. Far from the traffic chaos and the rush, Salta still respects siesta time as a law. Don’t expect anything to be open form 13 hrs to 17 hrs.
Ø They still allow to smoke in bars and restaurantes. When you ask for a restaurant reservation remember to request non smoking area if it is your case!
Ø Weather: Salta city is located in Lerma Valley. This means that when in town it is raining if you go out of the Valley it might be dry! So, when you head to Humahuaca Gorge or the Calchaqui Valley, don’t worry it it was raining in the city when you left. Probably it will stop in some kilometers.
Ø Although it is usually warm during day time, temperature drops off during the nights, be aware and take a jacket with you!
Ø Shopping- Many of these things you can find at the Artisans Market (San Martin 2555)
- Good and cheap silver
- Red and black “poncho” – this was what Guemes, the local hero used to use and now all the salteños use very proudly.
- Ceramics: they sell beautiful Indigenours designs ones.
- Wine- they produce the best Torrontés (a refreshing wine not so easy to find abroad)
Ø Excursions: many of the activities offered locally include going up to the 3 or 4 thousand metres. If you are choosing one of this we recommend you to drink lots of water, avoid eating meat the night before, avoid alcohol the night before and try to sleep enough before departure. All this help a lot for altitude sickness.
27 Oct
Buenos Aires Tango Show…where to go?
During the last ten years so many Tango Shows have opened and closed their doors that is hard to find updated information to see how the Tango night is vibrating this season.
Except for Tortoni and 36 billares, the rest of them are around the same prices,but proposes are very different. From modern to bizarre, from live music to singers who also dance, Tango night in BA has every day more to offer…try to choose yours!
- Esquina Carlos Gardel- Maybe the best dance I’ve seen. Dancers here understand every single letter of what Tango means. They show the develop of the dance during the years. Accompanied by the best Carlos Gardel songs (the most famous tango singer who died very dramatically when he was on the top of his career) Food is good, acceptable wine, good service. The place theatre style well conditioned. The only thing here is you might end sharing table with more tourists – except if you pay “vip” (double price) – to sit upstairs, more private slightly better view.110 usd approx.
- El Viejo Almacen- It used to be a burdel, until it turned into a shop, until it turned in a bar, then it was closed, and now they run a great show in a very cabaret style place. Dinner very good, but you have it in a separated place, in front of where the Tango Show is. Then, cross the street and they include two drinks after dinner. 110 usd aprox.
- Esquina Homero Manzi- Where most of the argentinians go, This corner has run tango music much more before than tourism arrived to Argentina. Maybe that is why most of Argentinians choose this place to enjoy the show. Dancers might not be as slim or young as in other tango shows, but they still are great dancers. Lot of singing is included, as for Argentinians this is a big part of it. Portions very abundant, and if you ask nicely they will sit you at the front. usd80 aprox
-Complejo Tango: Maybe the most bizarre tango show I have experimented. It includes a free class, which is great fun and you get to learn the basic steps! Then the place where the show goes on is simple, food is really good. Dancers come off the stage to take you for a few steps, singers sit at your table, and dresses are much simpler. But wine is unlimited, you don’t need to dress up too much and it feels like a party! usd90 aprox.
- Señor Tango: The oldest tango show has been surviving even during 2001 crisis- for some reason. It feels like the super touristy spot of the city, but full of character- excellent food and service. 100 usd aprox.-
- Tango Porteño: Excellent location, excellent show, good prices, good food. Great value. Theatre style, have room for hundreds of people, that is why they can offer better prices (special offers from 40usd) – but also why you have less intimate ambient.
- Madero Tango: If you have listened about the glamour of Argentinean women, this is the show where you see it. It looks like a tv channel, lots of make up and short dresses, bright everywhere (what doesn’t mean gold everywhere) – beatiful views of Puerto Madero. Fancy show, more cabaret than Tango. Used by some Argentinean companies to take their managers coming from abroad. Strange.
- Piazzola Tango: If you like modern Tango, this is the place. The very important tango composer, who was considered a revolutionary of his times, who challenged traditional Tango and though everything could be done in a different and risked way. Dancing here is amazing, and you take a glimpse of all the styles, but mostly Piazzola. Theatre style. Food great, good wine, excellent service. usd100 aprox.
- El Querandi: In San Telmo neighbourhood El Querandi could offer more. The annoying column at the middle of the stage limits the dancers- but still fine. Food maybe the best, lovely place and excellent service. Private tables. usd110.
- Cafe Tortoni: Do not eat here, as is pricy and food is bad! But Tortoni is Tortoni, and it is what it is because it was the first bar of Buenos Aires! Waiters here seem to hate people, but they offer the cheapest Tango show of the city (reservations just paying before!)- which is short but very alive. Might not be the best tango show, but gives you a good first introduction. usd25 aprox.
- Los 36 billares: Very similar to Cafe Tortoni, los 36 billares is another old café of Buenos Aires. A lovely place where dancers and singers check who is tonight as the show varies, many times it is even free! Same as Tortoni, great introduction to the dance, and service better. If you don’t speak spanish, might not understand when they talk (they like to do this during the show) but still will be able to enjoy the singing and dancing.
What am I forgetting? Which one did you go?
